Upper, lasting and finishing

Making Of - 2/2

Upper, lasting and finishing

In the first part of the making-of, we have seen how the pattern cutting of the model was made from the tracing on the last. All the distinct elements which compose the shoe are ready to be put together. The upper is the first part to be worked. A last preparation step is needed for the leather pieces requiring a future fixing with a bridle or a specific lacing. It is also at this moment that the ornamentations, made by perforation, are placed.

The stiching requires a great dexterity and precision in each gesture to garanty a quality result

The stitching

The pieces of leather, inside and lining, which compose the upper are stiched together in the closing workshop. The stiching requires a great dexterity and precision in each gesture of the stitcher to garanty a quality result. The upper is then positioned on a plastic last, ready for the lasting.

The lasting

The lasting consists in fixing the upper and the insole. The picture points out, following "the lights", the bridles of the upper going through the insole to be the bended and pasted. This specific way of lasting is named traditional hand lasting. Several different lasting exist, each of them having special characteristics depending on how the upper and the inside sole are fixed.

As an aside

From the stitching to the lasting, comes together a multitude of process that we have not mentioned. However each of them have an importance in the process of fabrication. For example, once the upper and the lining are pieced together, each edge is hand-dyed, with a brush, along with a mixture of natural dyes similar to the color of the leather. This meticulous attention to details contributes fully to the quality of a product.

Traditional hand lasting
  • dorure-pom-d-api
  • teinte-premiere
  • marquage-a-chaud

The construction

The final step of the making consists in assembling the outsole to the upper-insole element which has been made. In the case of a traditionnal lasting, the outsole is fixed by a pasting process. We then speak of cemented construction. It needs much more strictness and preparation beforehand to be able to make a perfect link sole-upper. The carding for example consists in doing a fine scouring of the under of the insole before going in the oven to futher the adherence of the paste.

The outsole is fixed by a pasting process, we then speak of cemented construction

The outsole is bonded with a specific high temperature active product. The upper, always on the last, is placed on the sole then all goes through the oven. The upper is then repositioned on the sole. After a first laps of time of drying, the paste is then reactivated by the heat. The sole is once and for all cemented.

The finishing

After a futher drying, the sole is polished so there is no irregularity, it is named the buffing. The pair is then cleanned and inspected by hand differently, depending of the final look we wish to give to the leather. All these stages are named the finishing.

During the buffing, the sole is polished so there is no irregularity
Mise en boite

The boxing

Once the finishing done, the pair of shoes is thoroughly checked to have no fabrication defect. Then, the pair is carefully wrapped in tissue paper and put in its box. Ending the 200 steps that have been required to the creation.