Glossary

Counter: Semi-rigid reinforcement placed at the back of the shoe, between the upper and the lining, to support the heel.

Derby: Shoes with “open” lacing, the quarters are sewn on top of the vamp.

Facing: Attached pieces with eyelets, or other means of closure.

Fit: All the characteristics of a shoe that allow it to dress the foot correctly and comfortably.

Full Grain: Leather that has retained its upper surface intact. Its properties are exceptional.

Insole: The interior sole of the shoe.

Last: Wood or plastic mold, representing the volume of the foot, used to make the shoe.

Lasting: Action consisting of perfectly positioning the upper on the last in order to assemble it.

Lining: Inner lining of the shoe, in contact with the foot.

Nubuck: Leather whose surface has been finely sanded to obtain a soft and velvety appearance.

Quarters: Parts of the upper that wrap around the heel and extend up to the lacing.

Richelieu: Shoes with “closed” lacing, the quarters are sewn under the vamp.

Skiving: Technique consisting of reducing the thickness of the leather to give it more flexibility.

Toe cap: Rigid reinforcement placed at the front of the shoe, between the upper and the lining, to protect the toes from shocks and maintain the shape.

Upper: All the pieces that form the upper part of the shoe.

Vamp: Front part of the upper, covering the instep and tip of the shoe.

Velour leather: Inner face of a leather hide, finely sanded for a soft and velvety appearance.